:root {
  --paper: #faf6ee;
  --card: #fffdf8;
  --ink: #17150f;
  --muted: #6d6455;
  --rule: #e3d9c8;
  --rule-strong: #cbbda5;
  --accent: #b3392f;
  --accent-soft: #f3e2dd;
  --jade: #2f6f5e;
  --jade-soft: #e3efe9;
  --footer-bg: #17150f;
  --footer-ink: #f3ede2;
  --footer-muted: #b3a893;
  --serif: "Iowan Old Style", "Palatino Linotype", Palatino, "Book Antiqua", Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;
  --sans: "Inter", -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, sans-serif;
  --max: 1120px;
  --measure: 68ch;
  --radius: 2px;
}

@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
  :root {
    --paper: #14120e;
    --card: #1c1915;
    --ink: #f0e9dd;
    --muted: #a89e8c;
    --rule: #332d24;
    --rule-strong: #4a4133;
    --accent: #e08a7f;
    --accent-soft: #33211e;
    --jade: #8fc4b3;
    --jade-soft: #1d2b27;
    --footer-bg: #0d0c0a;
    --footer-ink: #f0e9dd;
    --footer-muted: #9a907e;
  }
}

*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }

html { scroll-behavior: smooth; -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; }

body {
  margin: 0;
  background: var(--paper);
  color: var(--ink);
  font-family: var(--sans);
  font-size: 1.04rem;
  line-height: 1.7;
  -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;
  text-rendering: optimizeLegibility;
}

a, a:visited { color: inherit; text-decoration-color: var(--rule-strong); text-underline-offset: 3px; }
a:hover { color: var(--accent); text-decoration-color: var(--accent); }

a:focus-visible, button:focus-visible { outline: 3px solid var(--accent); outline-offset: 3px; }

/* ---------- masthead ---------- */

.masthead {
  max-width: var(--max);
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: 1.4rem 1.5rem;
  display: flex;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  gap: 0.8rem 2rem;
  align-items: center;
  justify-content: space-between;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule);
}

.brand { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 0.7rem; text-decoration: none; }
.brand:hover { color: var(--ink); }

.brand-mark {
  display: grid;
  place-items: center;
  width: 2.1rem;
  height: 2.1rem;
  background: var(--accent);
  color: #fff8f0;
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 1.15rem;
  font-weight: 700;
  border-radius: var(--radius);
}

.brand-text {
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 1.28rem;
  font-weight: 700;
  letter-spacing: -0.01em;
}

.masthead nav { display: flex; gap: 1.4rem; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.masthead nav a {
  color: var(--muted);
  text-decoration: none;
  font-size: 0.78rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.09em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  font-weight: 600;
}
.masthead nav a:hover, .masthead nav a[aria-current="page"] { color: var(--accent); }

/* ---------- shared ---------- */

main { max-width: var(--max); margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 1.5rem 4rem; }

.kicker {
  margin: 0 0 0.9rem;
  font-size: 0.72rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.16em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  font-weight: 700;
  color: var(--accent);
}

h1, h2, h3 { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 700; letter-spacing: -0.015em; }

.lede { font-size: 1.16rem; color: var(--muted); max-width: 52ch; margin: 0 0 1.2rem; }

.tag {
  display: inline-block;
  font-size: 0.66rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.12em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  font-weight: 700;
  padding: 0.2rem 0.5rem;
  border-radius: 999px;
  background: var(--accent-soft);
  color: var(--accent);
  margin-bottom: 0.7rem;
}
.tag-transport, .tag-travel { background: var(--jade-soft); color: var(--jade); }
.tag-food { background: #f6ead6; color: #8a5a14; }
.tag-cities { background: #e8e6f3; color: #4c467f; }
.tag-digital-life { background: #e2edf4; color: #2b5d7a; }
.tag-payments { background: var(--accent-soft); color: var(--accent); }
.tag-entry-exit { background: #e8e6f3; color: #4c467f; }
.tag-accommodation { background: #f6ead6; color: #8a5a14; }
.tag-practical { background: var(--jade-soft); color: var(--jade); }

@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
  .tag-food { background: #33281a; color: #d9ab63; }
  .tag-cities { background: #27243a; color: #b0a9e0; }
  .tag-digital-life { background: #1d2b33; color: #8fc0d8; }
  .tag-entry-exit { background: #27243a; color: #b0a9e0; }
  .tag-accommodation { background: #33281a; color: #d9ab63; }
  .tag-practical { background: #1d2b27; color: #8fc4b3; }
}

/* ---------- home hero ---------- */

.home { padding-top: 3.2rem; }

.hero {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1.25fr) minmax(280px, 0.75fr);
  gap: 3rem;
  align-items: stretch;
  padding-bottom: 3.5rem;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule);
}

.hero h1 {
  margin: 0 0 1.3rem;
  font-size: clamp(2.7rem, 6.4vw, 4.7rem);
  line-height: 0.98;
  letter-spacing: -0.035em;
}
.hero h1 em { font-style: italic; color: var(--accent); }

.hero-cta { margin: 1.6rem 0 0; }
.hero-cta a {
  font-weight: 700;
  font-size: 0.95rem;
  text-decoration: none;
  border-bottom: 2px solid var(--accent);
  padding-bottom: 0.15rem;
}

.hero-art {
  position: relative;
  min-height: 320px;
  border: 1px solid var(--rule-strong);
  background: var(--card);
  border-radius: var(--radius);
  overflow: hidden;
  display: flex;
  flex-direction: column;
  justify-content: space-between;
  padding: 1.4rem;
}

.lattice {
  position: absolute;
  inset: 0;
  opacity: 0.5;
  background-image:
    repeating-linear-gradient(45deg, transparent 0 26px, var(--rule) 26px 27px),
    repeating-linear-gradient(-45deg, transparent 0 26px, var(--rule) 26px 27px);
  mask-image: radial-gradient(circle at 50% 40%, #000 20%, transparent 72%);
}

.seal {
  position: relative;
  align-self: center;
  margin-top: 1.5rem;
  display: grid;
  place-items: center;
  width: 7.5rem;
  height: 7.5rem;
  border: 2px solid var(--accent);
  border-radius: 50%;
  color: var(--accent);
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 3.4rem;
  line-height: 1;
}

.hero-art p {
  position: relative;
  margin: 0;
  font-size: 0.68rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.14em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--muted);
}

/* ---------- sections ---------- */

.section { padding-top: 3rem; }

.section-head {
  display: flex;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  align-items: baseline;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 0.4rem 1.5rem;
  border-bottom: 2px solid var(--ink);
  padding-bottom: 0.7rem;
  margin-bottom: 1.6rem;
}
.section-head h2 { margin: 0; font-size: 1.5rem; }
.section-head p { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.9rem; }

.feature-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr));
  gap: 1.1rem;
}

.card {
  background: var(--card);
  border: 1px solid var(--rule);
  border-radius: var(--radius);
  transition: transform 0.16s ease, border-color 0.16s ease, box-shadow 0.16s ease;
}
.card:hover { transform: translateY(-3px); border-color: var(--rule-strong); box-shadow: 0 8px 24px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.06); }

.card-link { display: block; padding: 1.35rem; text-decoration: none; height: 100%; }
.card h3 { margin: 0 0 0.6rem; font-size: 1.28rem; line-height: 1.22; }
.card p { margin: 0 0 0.9rem; color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.92rem; line-height: 1.55; }
.card-meta { font-size: 0.74rem; color: var(--muted); letter-spacing: 0.04em; }

.card-feature { border-top: 3px solid var(--accent); }
.card-feature h3 { font-size: 1.5rem; }

/* ---------- latest rows ---------- */

.rows { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.row {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 3rem minmax(0, 1fr) auto;
  gap: 1rem;
  align-items: start;
  padding: 1.15rem 0;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule);
}
.row-num { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.05rem; color: var(--rule-strong); padding-top: 0.1rem; }
.row-main { text-decoration: none; display: grid; gap: 0.15rem; }
.row-main:hover .row-title { color: var(--accent); }
.row-title { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.2rem; font-weight: 700; line-height: 1.3; }
.row-desc { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.88rem; line-height: 1.5; }
.row-time { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.74rem; white-space: nowrap; padding-top: 0.35rem; }
.row .tag { margin-bottom: 0.15rem; }

/* ---------- index page ---------- */

.index { padding-top: 3rem; }

.page-head { padding-bottom: 2.2rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); margin-bottom: 2.4rem; }
.page-head h1 { margin: 0 0 0.8rem; font-size: clamp(2.2rem, 5vw, 3.4rem); line-height: 1; }

.cat-block {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 190px minmax(0, 1fr);
  gap: 2rem;
  padding: 1.4rem 0 2.2rem;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule);
}
.cat-head h2 { margin: 0 0 0.25rem; font-size: 1.35rem; }
.cat-head span { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.78rem; letter-spacing: 0.06em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.cat-list { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 1rem; }

/* ---------- article ---------- */

.article-page { padding-top: 3.2rem; }

.article-head { max-width: 760px; margin-bottom: 2.4rem; }
.article-head h1 {
  margin: 0 0 1rem;
  font-size: clamp(2.1rem, 5vw, 3.5rem);
  line-height: 1.02;
  letter-spacing: -0.03em;
}
.article-meta { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.82rem; letter-spacing: 0.05em; text-transform: uppercase; }

.article-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 210px minmax(0, var(--measure));
  gap: 3rem;
  align-items: start;
}

.toc {
  position: sticky;
  top: 1.5rem;
  border-top: 2px solid var(--ink);
  padding-top: 0.9rem;
}
.toc-title { margin: 0 0 0.7rem; font-size: 0.68rem; letter-spacing: 0.14em; text-transform: uppercase; font-weight: 700; color: var(--muted); }
.toc ol { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: grid; gap: 0.45rem; }
.toc a { text-decoration: none; font-size: 0.86rem; color: var(--muted); line-height: 1.4; display: block; }
.toc a:hover { color: var(--accent); }

.prose { max-width: var(--measure); font-size: 1.09rem; line-height: 1.78; }
.prose p { margin: 0 0 1.25rem; }
.prose h2 {
  position: relative;
  margin: 2.8rem 0 0.9rem;
  padding-top: 1rem;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--rule);
  font-size: 1.5rem;
  line-height: 1.25;
}
.h-mark {
  display: inline-block;
  width: 0.5rem;
  height: 0.5rem;
  background: var(--accent);
  margin-right: 0.55rem;
  vertical-align: 0.12em;
}
.prose h3 { margin: 2rem 0 0.6rem; font-size: 1.18rem; }
.prose ul, .prose ol { margin: 0 0 1.3rem; padding-left: 1.3rem; }
.prose li { margin-bottom: 0.45rem; }
.prose blockquote {
  margin: 1.8rem 0;
  padding: 0.1rem 0 0.1rem 1.3rem;
  border-left: 3px solid var(--accent);
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 1.18rem;
  font-style: italic;
  color: var(--muted);
}
.prose code {
  font-family: ui-monospace, Consolas, Menlo, monospace;
  font-size: 0.88em;
  background: rgba(127, 127, 127, 0.13);
  padding: 0.1em 0.35em;
  border-radius: 3px;
}
.prose a { color: var(--accent); }

.fine { margin-top: 2.6rem; padding-top: 1rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.82rem; line-height: 1.6; }

.related { margin-top: 3.5rem; padding-top: 1.6rem; border-top: 2px solid var(--ink); }
.related h2 { margin: 0 0 1.2rem; font-size: 1.35rem; }

/* ---------- static pages ---------- */

.page { max-width: 760px; margin: 0 auto; padding-top: 3.2rem; }
.page-head { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.page .prose { max-width: var(--measure); }

/* ---------- footer ---------- */

.site-footer {
  margin-top: 4rem;
  background: var(--footer-bg);
  color: var(--footer-ink);
}
.footer-inner {
  max-width: var(--max);
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: 2.6rem 1.5rem 3rem;
}
.footer-brand { margin: 0; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.35rem; font-weight: 700; }
.footer-tag { margin: 0.2rem 0 1.2rem; color: var(--footer-muted); font-size: 0.9rem; }
.footer-links { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 1.2rem; margin: 0 0 1.4rem; }
.footer-links a { color: var(--footer-ink); text-decoration: none; font-size: 0.82rem; letter-spacing: 0.04em; }
.footer-links a:hover { color: var(--footer-muted); }
.site-footer .fine { border-top: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.14); color: var(--footer-muted); margin-top: 0; }

/* ---------- responsive ---------- */

@media (max-width: 960px) {
  .hero { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 2rem; }
  .hero-art { min-height: 220px; }
  .feature-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
  .cat-block { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1rem; }
  .article-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1.8rem; }
  .toc { position: static; }
}

@media (max-width: 640px) {
  body { font-size: 1rem; }
  main { padding: 0 1.1rem 3rem; }
  .masthead { padding: 1.1rem 1.1rem; }
  .masthead nav { gap: 1rem; }
  .home, .index, .article-page, .page { padding-top: 2.2rem; }
  .hero h1 { font-size: clamp(2.3rem, 11vw, 3.2rem); }
  .feature-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .cat-list { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .row { grid-template-columns: 2rem minmax(0, 1fr); }
  .row-time { display: none; }
  .footer-inner { padding: 2rem 1.1rem 2.4rem; }
}

@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  html { scroll-behavior: auto; }
  .card { transition: none; }
  .card:hover { transform: none; }
}

@media print {
  .masthead, .site-footer, .toc, .related { display: none; }
  .article-grid { display: block; }
  .prose { max-width: none; }
}